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Kanazawa – The Western Capital of Japan

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Yesterday Robert Kaj and I visited Kanazawa. It was one of the places on my hitlist, because of a famous Japanese actress being named after the city and it’s supposed historical buildings.
It’s called the Kyoto of the West.

Like Kyoto, the station has (recently) been transformed in to a work of art.

Kanazawa Station with it’s distinctive Torii

Kanazawa Station, inside to outside

Escalator to the subway lines. Please note the flat part in the middle of the escalator

Kanazawa is close to the earthquake region of a few days back and was supposedly hit by a force 5 quake. The results are a staggering piece of plastic coming off a scale model of the station.

We didn’t really see any old buildings, but the trip was 3hours long and we did not have overly long to stay there so we’ve probably missed all the classic goodness. There are 2 Geisha districts still in working order in Kanazawa, which is more then Kyoto. They are supposedly larger too. The reason for going to Kanazawa was actually again one of the Nihon Sankei. One of the most beautiful gardens is supposedly in Kanazawa.
Ken-Rokuen. And it was there!

While we were in the station, we saw some adverts for the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. We decided to visit there too. On walking out of the station, my eye fell on this measly branch in a solitary little tree…

Yes! My first Sakura tree this season with some flowers!

On our way to Ken-Rokuen we stopped at a Doutor (Yes, Doutor, not… Du Tour) coffee shop (Not the Dutch type!) for some Ice Coffee and a cheeze toast (Toastie). You get to throw your own sugar syrup and concentrated milk in this ice coffee. There was a guy there that had already emptied 2 packs of cigarettes while playing on his DS Lite. Anyway, ofter finishing the coffee, we took it upon us to visit a local temple. Well, I wanted to go there because they had a public toilet on the premises and I needed to use it.
The temple had a nice garden.




And a few blossoms in the tree

It also had a rather distinctive entrance gate (not on the side we entered from) which looks totally out of place in a Japanese temple.

The gate.


And the rather bland temple with recorded cheezy music out of speakers.

When we had enough of this temple, we moved on to the museum, which is oposite Ken-Rokuen, as it happens. This was a stroke of good fortune. Now we had the two things we wanted to see at hand.

Impression of a dragon on top of the museum building



Leandro’s pool. You can walk into the exhibit and down some stairs into a blue room with the bottom part of some stairs and a roof of glass with water on top.
On the top end, outside the exhibit, you can look into a pool and see… the people in the blue room! A nifty bit of engineering by Leandro Erlich. He’s famous for his trick art.


In Thurell’s Room you saw an optical illusion of a flat wall
And it was open to the sky… I think…

We sat there for a while, because we were kinda tired.


And yes, I forgot to shave -_-;;

Anyway, it was a nice place to sit in. There was a nice breeze inside the room and it was quite. I could have remained there for the rest of the day with a good book on me.

However, we finally made it to Ken-Rokuen. The garden was indeed beautiful and worth it’s 300 yen entrance fee. I’ve taken quite some pictures there. Here’s a small selection of them.

Water mass with a tea-house in the distance.

Waterfall, about 4m high.

Teahouse

Small island with blooming Sakura


The oldest fountain in Japan


Famous stepping stones in the shape of a flight of geese.


Very long branch of a Japanese Oaktree, supported due to it’s weight

Sakura

Fushigi no somebody

Dinner… ehm… Carp.


Nice river with small bamboo shoots, kept small for the effect.

Yes, proof I saw Sakura blooming

Reality comes close to this oasis of rest and tranquility.

Well, since it was running towards 16:00 and remember, the journey home was supposedly 3 hours, we went back to the station by bus. Yes, it’s cheating, but we were tired and didn’t feel like walking the same route again. At the station I reserved tickets for the 18:00 Thunderbird to Osaka. The name sounded like the train would be moved along on strings and I had great fears as to it’s speed. When I got the tickets, it appeared the train would be back in Osaka about 30 minutes sooner then the morning train, the Raichou (a rather old express train known under various names in Japan). So appearantly, it would realy move as the thunder.
Anyway, since it was my brother’s birthday I diceded to say hi to him and grab some food. We went to the station department store and of course, on the 8th floor, they had a food court, like most department stores.
We went and had some delicious Gyouza and Chinese food there. The Mabo Toufu I had was really spicy and rather nice. The sauce was not tomato based, but it was sharp and nice none the less.

When we had dinner, we went back to the station and bought some Pino ice cream. I also saw some typical Japanese crisps… Mayonaise flavoured crips, Piri Piri variation. I bought a small bag just for the hell of it.
They were kinda nice. Peppery Mayonaise-like potato crisps. Good stuff.

Well, it was time to board the Thunderbird 44 (In the series they only came to 5) and go back home.
The Thunderbird looked like a “koploper” from the NS and also has those doors that open upfront to add an additional train, which they promptly did, just to impress us that they could :)

Anyway, we’re back in Osaka now.

Amano Hashidate – Nihon Sankai

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On the 26th I went to Amano Hashidate with Robert and Kaj.

Amano Hisidate is one of the Nihon Sankai. The top 3.

Amano Hashidate belongs to the top 3 views in Japan. They are not rated 1-3 but just as best 3.
I have visited Miyajima, another of the top 3, 2 years ago. This small island in the bay of Hiroshima has the famous Torii in the sea (Temple gate). It also sports some imperial, thus holy, dear that you are allowed to feed special biscuits. You are not allowed to harm them though. The island is very busy from 8 till 17:00 so I took myself and my camera there past 17:00 to be able to take all the pictures I wanted in all quietness. If you were, like me, based in Osaka, around 19:08 the last train leaves from Miyajima-guchi.

Last year in August, Mischel and I went to Mishima. Not only is there a bridge to a chalk island, but… there are over a 1000 small rock formations made up of chalk-rock. That’s where the place gets it’s name from.
Mishima was quite forgettable. It did absolutely nothing for me. More beautiful formations can be found in Greece, Turkey or even the UK (Isle of Wight). Miyajima however, was quite beautiful.

So, with mixed anticipation I went to Amano Hashidate two days ago. According to Lonely Planet a 1inch half-page column is more then enough to describe it. Rough Guide takes 2-3 pages. I tend to agree with Rough guide a lot more then LP. LP is written by and for impatient Americans that rather see the venom in things then the beauty. Rough Guide sometimes gets carried away so they come over like backpacking hippies stuck in the sixties. In the end both guides gave me no clue whatsoever as to what to expect. Total crap? Almost heavenly experience?

Well, after having been there, I can report the following:
- It might come over a bit disappointing if you’re expecting huge unkempt nature with canyons and desert etc.

- The water and the beach are among the cleanest most beautiful in Japan I have seen in my 12 visits.

- The sandbar it’s self is a nice change from urban encroachment. Of course, it’s clean like we’re used to here in Japan. However, some of the trees and looking at the construction cars, even more will have to make place for bits of concrete for the tired Japanese to take shelter in against the sun or rain. This really is a pity as I loved the care taken with supporting trees that have become to heavy to stand upright in the loose and shallow ground.


Supported trees

- The view from the top of the surrounding mountain is great! The cable car going up the mountain was OK but rather old. The lift with open seats without any support, running parallel to the cable car looked dinky and you couldn’t have gotten me in there with a shotgun against my head.

On with the rest.
When having walked the short 3.6km trip across the sandbar, you arrive at a street with housing right against it. A bit of a disillusion, as you thought you were in a nice nature preserve for a short while. A quay runs along the inner-bay and gets continuously hit by waves from the choppy waters. Strange enough, the water on the sea-side of Amano-Hashidate was so calm it was almost still.


Choppy waters

Well, after walking along the quay for a short stretch, we walked along the streets towards the cable car you could see going up the mountain. On our way there, we came past a nice looking temple. I was thinking of what to buy for my nephews, as I am their only uncle and thus should spoil them rotten. Then I came upon the temple shop. I decided to buy them traditional munk’s hats. Those conical things from woven rice leaves. Figuring it would be a pain to drag them along the entire time, I decided to buy them on the way down.


Munk’s hats

As we reached the cable car and lift, I was tempted not to go up the mountain, because, at that time, I had only seen the chair lift and not the cable car. Since you will only catch me in a chair lift when I am dead, I almost wished Kaj and Robert a nice time on top. But then… Yay! A cable car! So, I could visit the top too!


Cable car and lift

So Aiming for the top, up we went! The view was spectacular! Flabbergasted is the wrong word for it. So let’s not use that. The view was great. Yes, I do have to agree with the Japanese on two of the tree best views of Japan. An additional thing you can do there, besides eating roasted squid and buying souvenirs, is throw mini clay-pidgeons at an iron ring. 3 pieces for 100 yen. If you throw them all through the ring, it’s supposed to bring you luck! With my aim, I didn’t even try ^^;;


View of Amano Hashidate

We tried a Sofuto cureemu (softice) on the top before going back. On the way up, Kaj and Robert had to wait for me, because the Cable Car only runs every 15 minutes. While the chair lift, of course, runs continuously. However, the cable car is faster and I got in the cable car, the same time they got in their chairs. So I was down faster! I have some video footage of the climb down.



Birds of prey. Do you know what they are?

After having picked up the two hats, we proceeded to the ferry terminal to take the easy route back instead of crossing the sandbar yet again. It was so cool we did that, because two girls of about 4 were throwing small bits of cookie into the water behind the ferry. This attracted the seagulls so I rummaged around in my backpack, finding an old Melon Pan. I gave this to the girls who dug into it whit gusto, throwing chunks of it overboard, attracting a beautiful bird of prey. According to Rene’s comment in Kaj’s blog it may be a sea eagle (Osprey) but those have much more white. They were beautiful birds. That’s all I know for sure. If you can point out what they are, let me know.

After returning to Osaka by a direct Express train, we went into Yodobashi Umeda. Visiting the restaurant floor there, we dined on Shabu Shabu for about an hour of the alloted 90mins. all you can eat feast.
This set us back 2750 yen each. Quite cheap for Shabu Shabu. We went home after that and went to sleep. Except that I wanted to finish the new Hollows book by Kim Harrisson. It kept me up till 4am and irritated because still nothing much has been resolved after finishing the book. Tomorrow, we’re visiting Ken-rokuen, one of the 3 most beautiful gardens in Kanazawa.

I’ll write that up this evening. Now, I’m going out for a bit.
But before I go…. “Gelukkig hebben we de foto’s nog…”
Most of these were taken by Kaj with my Camera, seeing as he forgot his and it gave me the opportunity to film stuff instead.


Bridge to Amano Hashidate, it can turn on an axle to let ships pass into the harbour


Highspeed roudtrip boats


Dried Fugu (Blowfish) on a rack.


Freshly caught squid and octopus